强大根基
大胆前卫的建筑廓形
据品牌丰富的历史档案显示,早期从事建筑师的经历塑造了Pierre Balmain的作品。 那些积淀数十年的草图、剪报、视频和作品令人惊叹,赋予Olivier Rousteing无限灵感,启发他打造出Balmain巴尔曼的21世纪时尚秀。
Among the fine arts, architecture has always been the central inspiration behind Monsieur Balmain’s designs, spanning nearly five decades. When he arrived in Paris in 1933 to study architecture at the École des Beaux-Arts, his passion for fashion was already so strong and sincere that he quickly secured an internship at the renowned couture house Molyneux. This formative experience allowed him to divide his time between architecture classes and couture training—a duality that would leave an indelible mark on his design process and creative philosophy.
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A few years after founding the House of Balmain in 1945, Pierre Balmain delivered a seminal lecture in Brussels in 1950 titled “On the Relationship between Architecture and Couture.” During this talk, he famously stated: «It is as an architect that I often react, and as an architect that I think» and “Dressmaking is the architecture of movement. There is no place for anything but life. The architect creates a static palace, sumptuous or functional, convenient or rich. The dressmaker must sew a tunic that is all of these things, and also in whatever position the wearer chooses» (“La Couture est l’architecture du mouvement”). In this lecture, Monsieur Balmain shared emotions and memories gathered from cities visited during his first world tour in 1947.
Since 1945, architecture has remained a guiding principle, infusing the construction, bold lines, intricate cuts, and ornamentation of Balmain garments. His design vocabulary also incorporates arches, pyramids, and the very essence of «geometric centers of the dresses». Elaborate architectural forms continue to inspire Balmain’s powerful silhouettes—echoed in jacket tailoring, padded shoulders, evening gown structures, intricate ornaments and exquisite openwork.
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Balmain巴尔曼建筑
“建筑和时装设计显然密不可分。前者以石块建造,后者以布料纺织。 一个旨在留存数世纪,另一个则只为一季而备。但二者的主要区别并不在此。”
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时尚界的转折点
Pierre Balmain的首个系列大胆前卫,赢得了当时主流时尚评论家的一致好评。 而Balmain的挚友——美国作家爱丽丝·B·托克拉斯(Alice B. Toklas)更是称1945年的这场时尚秀标志着时尚界迎来全新转折。
她盛赞Balmain是战后巴黎时尚界的开拓先锋,确立了新颖清新而又不可或缺的全新愿景,并将这一愿景命名为”新法式风格”。
新法式风格的诞生
“突然之间,人们开始觉醒,对什么是真正的时尚、装饰以及女性形体和魅力有了全新认识。连衣裙不再是或繁或简的无用装饰,而是成为了美本身,展现丝绸、羊毛、蕾丝、羽毛和鲜花蕴含的优雅和精致。”
爱丽丝·B·托克拉斯
新法式风格
1946
JOLIE MADAME廓形
1949年,Balmain设计出品牌第一款香水Jolie Madame,称其凝萃“激情和魅力之夜的冒险香息”。
全新香水备受青睐,为表纪念,Pierre Balmain将他的1952年秋季系列也命名为“Jolie Madame”。该系列 直接构筑于Balmain清新大胆而又柔美妩媚的新法式风格之上。系列名很快就成了品牌精准剪裁、 精美润饰和典型巴黎风情的代名词

照片版权
照片,PIERRE BALMAIN和品牌模特,1953年 :
© Balmain巴尔曼巴黎,版权所有
Balmain巴尔曼1950年定制时装系列的全部草图 :
©Balmain巴尔曼巴黎,版权所有















